The way to service a refrigerator is basically the same even if the brand is LG SHARP SAMSUNG TOSHIBA SANYO PANASONIC POLYTRON or any other brand in Yogyakarta, Jakarta, Surabaya, Bandung, Cirebon, Bekasi, Tangerang, Kalimantan, Sumatra, Semarang or other cities heheheee, only the location and shape of the components are different. slightly different but sometimes the same form, function and how it works
An easy way to find out the cause of the damage, you should know the characteristics of the damage to the refrigerator, whether the refrigerator is completely dead, the refrigerator does not want to cool, the refrigerator is not cold enough.
Right away, I will clarify individually how for manage harm to the 1-entryway and 2-entryway coolers. Prior to adjusting the cooler, you ought to initially check the power at home, who knows the reason for the issue is really the fridge in light of the fact that the fitting is free, the electric voltage isn't steady or on the grounds that you haven't purchased an electric heartbeat token heheheee
STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIIONS TO FIX THE FRIDGE 1 ENTRYWAY IS THOROUGHLY OFF
What is implied by being totally dead doesn't imply that the lights are likewise dead, assuming that the harm happens simultaneously as the cooler light is off, the chance of the reason is that a link has come free or has been chomped by a mouse.
The complete dead cooler harm here is the blower motor as the core of the fridge would rather not siphon freon (refrigrant) gas which is situated behind the fridge doesn't work, doesn't sound, doesn't warm and doesn't vibrate.
For that, I'll simply make sense of first... how the cooler attempts to make it more obvious a wide range of harm, yet the individuals who as of now comprehend will peruse it over the long run, so the people who don't have any idea, if it's not too much trouble, read this one post:
HOW THE COOLER WORK /FRIDGE
The most effective method to search for dead cooler harm in the accompanying ways:
The initial step
Check the 2 links prompting the blower machine, in the event that you have a multi device you can quantify it by knowing whether the two fitting wires are associated with the link way prompting the blower motor. In the event that one of the links isn't associated with the electrical plug, it implies that the indoor regulator is harmed, supplant it with another indoor regulator.
Supplanting another indoor regulator doesn't be guaranteed to imply that the temperature setting matches, now and again the cooler temperature hasn't frozen, the indoor regulator has removed the power to the blower. For this, you want to reset the indoor regulator, the strategy you can find in the accompanying post:
Step by step instructions to SETTING Indoor regulator Ice chest Cooler Exhibit
In the event that the two links are associated, continue to check the PTC Hand-off and Over-burden of the cooling blower
Stage two
Over-burden is a security for the engine blower loop which will consequently remove the electric flow in the event that harm happens because of a messed up curl, the electric voltage diminishes or is shaky, the blower motor is adhered or because of unreasonable motor intensity and will be associated again when the intensity diminishes.
Over-burden is generally harmed because old enough or some are broken (broken).
Third step
Check the PTC Transfer what capabilities to interface between the running and beginning curls.
Harm to the PTC Transfer for the most part happens because of the fired radiator as the connector breaking, however typically the indication of harm is set apart by the blower motor inclination warm or hot when held due to fizzled restart. Nothing bad can be said about checking the PTC Hand-off, who knows whether it's not associated with the running pin since it's destructive or corroded. On the off chance that the state of the Cooler Over-burden and PTC Transfer is in great shape, it implies the harm brought about by the blower engine curl is broken (supplant another blower motor).
Step by step instructions to fix a 1 entryway fridge that isn't sufficiently cold
Fix the one-entryway fridge, for this situation the blower machine vibrates yet isn't sufficiently cold and where the cooler racks are, there is no ice or there is ice, just piece of it is over the cooler or as an afterthought, perhaps because of a freon gas spill, there is a halt in the channel and slender line or evaporator pipe line oil development happens. Yet, it could likewise be that the fridge isn't cold enough because of the tension/pressure of the blower motor siphon that isn't solid.
For a 1-entryway fridge, it isn't sufficiently cold, yet there is ice bloom or an even development of ice blossom all through the cooler racks, perhaps because of the cooler entryway not being shut firmly.
Instructions to FIX A 2-Entryway Fridge IS OFF
To recognize harm to a two-entryway fridge that is totally dead, to be specific the blower machine doesn't turn on, doesn't sound, doesn't vibrate or warm and the blower fan in the cooler room likewise switches out yet the lights can in any case be on, you can do the accompanying advances.
The initial step
Search for the area of the fridge clock, the vast majority of the cooler clocks are situated behind the fridge in the left corner, however there is a kind of fridge that is put in the lower entryway space.
Turn the setting somewhat anticlockwise then associate the fridge to the power, assuming the blower and blower fan engine are on, stand by around 5 minutes.
Does the condenser pipe (the external body of the cooler) hold hot/warm and the temperature of the cooler room starts to cool...? This implies that the harm happens to thawing out part parts like the cooler radiator, thermo/warm circuit or the fridge thaw out clock itself which is harmed. Actually look at one individually with the accompanying advances.
Instructions to actually take a look at the cooler radiator
- Moves toward check the parts of the 2-entryway cooler, specifically the fridge radiator thaw out in the accompanying manner:
- See straightforwardly whether the radiator is broken or the warmer wire is broken.
- Use multi to check, in the event that it's still great it will interface and show a specific opposition esteem.
- Attempt straight by associating the two links to the electric flow, however assuming it's excessively confounded to check regardless of whether the radiator and the warm wire are great, you can attempt by consolidating the two thermo thaw out links and afterward turning the thaw out clock to the place of the thawing out process where the blower motor and fan dynamo engine will switches off and just the warmer attempts to warm the ice in the evaporator pipe room with the goal that it dissolves
The most effective method to check the 2-entryway fridge thaw out clock
In checking the radiator above, it is expressed that joining the two thermo thaw out links, however to check the fridge thaw out clock by isolating the thermo thaw out link or reattaching the thermo thaw out which is at this point not cold, since when the thermo thaw out is cool, the temperature underneath 13° Celsius will be associated.
To see whether the fridge thaw out clock is still looking great, you can take a gander at the pivot of the turning gear on the part I set apart with a circle in the image above, or by holding up a limit of 45 minutes it will change to the cooling system, specifically the blower motor and the blower fan engine will reawaken.
Instructions to FIX A 2 Entryway Cooler LESS Virus
- There are numerous potential foundations for a two-entryway cooler that isn't sufficiently cold, to be specific:
- The entryway isn't tight can be the reason for the fridge isn't sufficiently cold.
- In the event that a fridge model purposes a fan engine in the cooling segment to cool or disseminate heat from the condenser line and there is harm to the fan engine or the balances of the condenser pipe are covered with dust, the fridge won't cool to its greatest. These are in many cases tracked down in inverter coolers, box coolers and feature fridges.
- There is a gridlock in the water pipeline from the thawing out process in the evaporator prompting the water supply. This halt makes the warmer be lowered in water and unfit to warm the ice blossom in the evaporator pipe space which causes the development of ice bloom and blocks the air course way. upset beneath.
- The thawing out process bombs like clockwork because of harm to the thawing out part bringing about a development of ice develop in the evaporator chamber which is situated in the cooler compartment which is shut by a parcel and shuts all approaching and active air course ways.
- There is a disturbance in the restricting of the freon gas pipeline, a freon gas stop and the blower motor strain to siphon freon gas diminishes which will make the fridge not cool enough, I will examine how to fix it toward the finish of this post.
The most effective method to fix a 2-entryway cooler because of ice development in the evaporator chamber
Identify harm that has happened to a 2-entryway cooler with the qualities of a gathering of ice develop in the evaporator pipe space. In the event that you make an off-base estimate, the ice will return in around 1-2 days. To try not to make an off-base speculation, you can supplant the part in the accompanying manner :
The initial step
Liquefy the ice bloom that endlessly adheres to the cooler compartment parcel into the evaporator room by utilizing a hair dryer so the ice blossom melts and opening it is simple.
Or on the other hand by showering water for a quicker strategy by moving the refrigerator out of the house, obviously so it doesn't flood 😃😃😃
On the off chance that you trust that the fluid will liquefy itself, it can require an entire day, even as long as 2 days.
After the ice has to some degree or totally dissolved, open the protection cover by unscrewing every one of the screws and afterward pulling the protection utilizing forceps.
Liquefy all the ice assuming there is any left while checking the water line prompting the supply behind the cooler regardless of whether it is stopped up.
Stage two
Search for the area of the thermo thaw out, the thermo thaw out is found appended to the suppressor pipe, however some are set over the evaporator pipe blades or on the divider.
Consolidate the two links to associate which will enact the warmer.
Third step
Check the fridge radiator thaw out and thermo intertwine by turning the thaw out clock gradually counterclockwise until the blower motor and blower fan engine switch off, hang tight for around 10 seconds for the glass warmer and 3-5 minutes for the line radiator then, at that point, eliminate the power and check the warmer thaw out regardless of whether it's hot, assuming it's hot it implies it's still great and reasonable for use.
Fourth step
Check the thaw out clock by turning off or eliminating the thermo thaw out so the link isn't associated, associate the electric fridge while taking a gander at the revolution of the clock wheel through the straightforward glass as displayed in the clock picture above which I have circumnavigated regardless of whether it is pivoting, in the event that it is turning it implies the thaw out clock is still great and reasonable for use. another way in the event that there is no straightforward glass, stand by around 45 minutes all things considered then the clock assuming it is still kindness turn and go to the cooling system to be specific the blower motor and fan engine reawaken.
In the event that everything is looking great, to be specific the water pipe lines are smooth, the warmer and thermo combine are great, the clock is likewise great, then the following stage is to supplant the thermo thaw out, on the grounds that the method for speculating the thermo thaw out is as yet reasonable for use or has been harmed is a piece troublesome, there is water in the thermo thaw out which can cause harm despite the fact that while checking by setting it in a low temperature (cold) place it is still great, not really when it is utilized it is still great.
In the event that a 2-entryway cooler purposes an electrical PCB module as a
The most effective method to Fix A Fridge 1 2 Entryway LESS OR NOT COOLING Because of Break Issues, GAS Conclusion
Fixing harmed coolers, both one-entryway and two-entryway fridges for issues with harm to the channeling framework or freon gas (refrigrant) of all brands, should be visible from their attributes as follows:
- The blower motor is on however when held against the beyond the fridge body it isn't hot or warm
- No ice or a tiny bit of ice on the evaporator pipe
Cooler fix steps are releasing, obstructed or a ton of oil is caught in the evaporator pipe
To fix a defective ice chest, obviously, by fixing it and topping off the gas, while for freon gas stop issues, search for and fix it.
Is the maintenance step that easy...?
Gracious obviously not, in the event that you are thoughtless, the outcomes may not be ideal and won't keep going long.
For that, how to fix it, you can do it in the accompanying way:
Get ready work devices to fix the funneling framework alongside refrigerant gas
- Pipe welding
- Pipe shaper (pipe shaper)
- Forceps
- Slender cylinder shaper
- Complex and hoses
- Vacuum machine
Materials utilized:
- Freon gas (refrigrant)
- Cleaning fluid material ( R11 )
- Cleaning specialist (methyl)
- Copper welding silver
- Welding aluminum ( aluplatinum )
- Welding copper pipes - iron lines (metal)
- Moving gas (nitrogen, R22 or R32)
- Filling pipe
- Channel
- Slim line
- Sandpaper (scouring paper)
- Green paste, iron paste (if you need to fix a break, use stick
SORT OF WORK
- Vacuum: eliminating air in the framework so the framework turns into a vacuum.
- Flushing : eliminating a wide range of soil from the framework.
# What is implied by the framework is the establishment of channeling in the cooler, in particular release pipes (pressure pipes), condenser pipes, slender lines, evaporator lines and pull pipes (attractions pipes).
Fix step
Cut the finish of the gas filling pipe in the blower motor to figure out more obviously the kind of harm, in the event that subsequent to removing no gas comes or there is just a bit, it implies the reason for the harm is because of a hole. If at the hour of cutting the filling pipe a ton of gas emerges, it implies that the reason for the harm is on the grounds that the gas line is interfered (obstructed).
The initial step is by flushing the funneling framework
Instructions to flush the Cooler/Fridge/Exhibit/Chiller cooling framework (cooler line)
- Eliminate the release pipe and the finish of the condenser pipe appended to the channel. Introduce the filling pipe with a welding on the release line to work as a cleaning liquid, for example, R11 or methyl then push it with a gas supporter while opening the condenser end cap until the water fume emerges and ensure it is perfect of a wide range of soil,
Condenser flushing is finished.
- Eliminate the pull pipe (blower attractions pipe end), cut the slender line toward the finish of the channel and interface it with the drawn out filling pipe so it can oblige the cleaning fluid then, at that point, push it with a driving gas and the finish of the attractions pipe is opened and shut until what comes out is steam, if the evaporator pipe is spilling , while fixing it first which was recently scoured or sanded around the paint spill until it is perfect. In any case, to weld the release, close it briefly the hard way.
In the event that there is a stopped up gas issue in the fine cylinder, in the event that it can't be cleaned with cleaning liquid, you ought to supplant it with another slim cylinder.
Evaporator flushing is finished.
- To supplant the hairlike is fairly troublesome, yet you can eliminate the slender from the evaporator and make a way by poking a hole in the back with a screwdriver first so you can see whether there is a condenser pipe implanted toward the rear of the cooler body. Slim lines can likewise be gone through the water channel.
- Weld spills on the evaporator utilizing aluplatinum which had recently been cleaned of paint and oil.
- Reconstruct the framework
- Supplant the channel with another one.
- Change blower oil.
- Put a 10 cm vacuum fine line on the channel next to the framework slim line to utilize the vacuum blower that accompanied the cooler
Step by step instructions to vacuum the Cooler/Fridge/Grandstand/Chiller (Fridge) cooling framework
- put a filling spout on the filling pipe on the blower, in the event that the blower has an issue supplant another one, this is likewise similar to how to supplant a refrigeration blower, join the hose alongside the complex and freon gas (refrigrant)
Vacuum utilizing a vacuum machine, in the event that you don't have a vacuum machine, turn on the blower while really taking a look at the vacuum slim line to eliminate air in the line establishment framework until the air truly doesn't emerge from the vacuum hairlike line.
- At the point when it's a vacuum condition, switch off the blower while putting a little methyl fluid on the finish of the vacuum pipe, the methyl will be sucked in and promptly press the finish of the vacuum slim line.
Stand by a couple of seconds until it is affirmed that there are no breaks.
- Fill the freon gas ( refrigerant ) to 40 psi and stand by a second, then, at that point, turn on the blower. On the complex needle it will drop to 0 psi or less, on the off chance that it is less it is added gradually until the freon gas is loaded up with a tension of around 10 psi.
The most effective method to add freon gas, you must be patient and don't rush while watching the evaporator pipe happen uniformly.
- Typical charging time can require around 1 hour since gas filling can't be compelled to be full promptly which brings about the blower motor buckling down.
- Assuming there is even ice in all evaporators and the gas content shows 10 psi, it implies that the filling of refrigerant gas is finished. Crush the filling line and afterward cut and close the line with welding. The gas filling process has been finished.
Remember:
Assuming there is as yet a sputtering sound in the evaporator pipe and no ice happens, it is conceivable that the evaporator flushing isn't perfect from oil or it might really be that the cleaning liquid is still in the evaporator pipe.
That is the manner by which to fix a wide range of harm to coolers or different fridges.
